Argentina Travel to Argentina ARGENTINA TOURS, HOTELS AND TRAVEL GUIDE
Argentina
Tours & Circuits
Hotels in Argentina Argentina
Nature & Ecology
Argentina
Adventure Travel
Argentina
Pictures & Photos
Argentina Travel Useful Information Argentina
Travel Guide
Argentina Site Map | Lugares Magazine | Enjoy Argentina Testimonials | Travel Agency | Our Offices



LUGARES
MAGAZINE

JUJUY


by
Enjoy Argentina

Enjoy Argentina Travel
Home Page


ARGENTINA MAP

INTRODUCTION to ARGENTINA

Argentina Travel
Guide


BUENOS AIRES
IGUAZU
Iguazu Falls
Iguazu River
Circuits
Iguazu National Park
Foz De Iguazu
National Park

CORDOBA
Road of Big Lakes
Road of the History
The Road of The
Punilla

Road of Mar Chiquita
Road To Traslasierra
MENDOZA
Zone of the Centre
Eastern Zone
Southern Zone
Mountain High
Circuit

Ranches
Gran Mendoza
The Wine Trail
SALTA
Northeast Circuit
West Andean
Circuit

Southeast Circuit
Valleys Circuit
SAN LUIS
Circuit of the
Centre

Ranches
Northeastern
Circuit

Western Circuit
Northern Circuit
JUJUY
Puna Circuit
Quebrada Circuit
Valleys Circuit
Yunga Circuit

PATAGONIA
TRAVEL & TOURS


BARILOCHE
Lake Perito Moreno
Villa La Angostura
Esquel
USHUAIA
Tierra del Fuego
National Park

Beagle Channel
PUERTO MADRYN
Rawson
Gaiman

SAN MARTIN DE LOS
ANDES and the CROSS
of the LAKES

Junin de los Andes
Cerro Chapelco
Lanin National Park
CALAFATE
Perito Moreno
Glacier

El Chalten
Los Glaciares
National Park



Call our TOLL FREE number: USA: 1-800-790-2961
Local Line:   Spain - Barcelona: 0034-931846831   UK - London: 44-203-393-8867
ARGENTINA TRAVEL
Business Hours: Monday to Friday: 09:00 am - 6:00 pm.
Headquarters (located in Lima - Peru) Time Zone: GMT -5 hours

LUGARES MAGAZINE
MAIN PAGE
SPANISH VERSION
REVISTA LUGARES ARGENTINA
LUGARES MAGAZINE Nro. 46
Page. 40 - 45
Text and Pictures: Guido Chouela

LUGARES MAGAZINE

JUJUY


Trowel cromatica - picture of Lugares Magazine We arrived at the Quebrada de Humahuaca on Route 9. Whoever called the mountains around Purmamarca "of the seven colours" is guilty of understatement, there are dozens of shades of green, red and grey. There are hundreds of kilometres of scenery with subtle chromatic shades created by geological movements, erosion and the passage of time.

Broken of humahuaca  - picture of Lugares Magazine If you arrive on Route 9 from the south, a few kilometres along the road you reach Purmamarca, one of the most beautiful little villages in the pass. It has a few peaceful squares and houses of terracotta adobe. As you would expect, around the enchanting central square there are colonial houses, an interesting 17th century church with its interior built of teasel wood, numerous local handicraft stalls and an algarrobo tree which has been a witness to the landscape of the pass for more than 500 years. A few metres away is a very pleasant "posada" and "La Posta de Purmamarca", where it is virtually essential that you try the northern specialities made in the kitchen of Lucy Vilte, the posada's celebrated cook. The "humitas en chala", the empanadas and the corn with cheese have a distinctive taste in each of the villages and towns in the pass.

Continuing on Route 9, you reach Maimará, a small town surrounded by the "Painters Palette", another name referring to the glorious variety of colours in the neighbouring range. On the side of the mountain lies the town cemetery, which can be clearly seen from the road.

Pucará de Tilcara

Further north we reached Tilcara, with its museums, markets and folklore music concerts. However, Tilcara's greatest attraction is the famous Pucará, which has been rebuilt, and is a wonderful sight.

Signs arqueologicos - picture of Lugares Magazine A Pucará was an ancient indigenous military city which, for strategic reasons, was established on high ground with a dominant view over the surrounding countryside. The view of the Humahuaca pass from the Pucará is quite unforgettable. It is better seen on foot - if one is already acclimatised to the altitude - rather than by car, one should not forget to visit the curious botanical garden, home to innumerable species of thistles and cacti. The Archaeological Museum contains many notable exhibits of the different cultures that have inhabited the region. Around the central square, there is a handicraft market where one can buy beautiful local fabrics at good prices.

Sikuris - picture of Lugares Magazine If you visit the city at Easter, or in the month of the Pachamama, you will experience the popular religious festivals that characterise the christianised Coya culture. During Easter week, thousands of believers from other villages arrive at Tilcara to take part in the procession, which climbs a steep hill to the Punta Corral pass, at more than 4,000 metres. The sikuri bands - small orchestras that repeat the same rhythm on their drums and sikus - create the monotonous, atmospheric sound of the ceremony. The city is garlanded with flowers to receive them. The festivities of the Puna, similar to other cultures of the region and the rest of Latin America, are one of the main trademarks of the northern provinces.

Natural and Archaeological eserve

At daybreak we headed north on route 9 with Ariel Mosca, who knows every inch of the Puna and everyone who lives in Tilcara. The first light of dawn was falling on the mountains, blending with the mist of the cold night. Beyond Humahuaca, the tarmac comes to an end, and a sinuous climb begins up to 4000 metres. This is the beginning of the Puna, or what Bolivians call the Altiplano. We headed to Abra Pampa - called by some the "Argentine Siberia" and "the capital of the Puna" by others - and from there we took the Provincial Route 7 to the Pozuelos Lake at 3700 metres. It covers 15000 hectares and is the natural habitat of more than 36 species of migratory birds. After driving 21ktn around the southern part of the lake, we arrived at Rinconada. This hamlet, currently inhabited by 200 souls, was founded in 1624 and was called Rinconada del Oro or Valle Rico de Rinconada because of its goldmines. Legends abound of gold nuggets found in the adobe walls of the houses or under stones.

Rest - picture of Lugares Magazine Some of these stories were told to us while we walked through the village square where one can see an 18th Century church and the thick arches of the "Cabildo", perfectly preserved. Along the road from Rinconada to the Pan de Azúcar, the Puna appears as an extensive plain of incomparable beauty, interrupted by high plateaux where, in ancient times, the indigenous population once lived. The Pucará de Rinconada is one of these and, from there, you can see the basin of the lake and the high plain. One can also see the Antigal - visited almost exclusively by archaeologists-with its surprising number of jumbled buildings.

The Salt of the Earth

To the south of Tilcara, on the road that goes to Purmamarca, there is a steep road - to Abra de Potrerillos - that rises to 4,200 metres and gives out onto the Puna. We arrived at an absolutely white desert - Las Salinas Grandes.

From here one can take the recently opened pass to Jama in Chile, or take Route 40, which starts a few kilometres further up, close to the Pozuelos Lake - and head south to cross the border with Salta and arrive at the city of San Antonio de los Cobres. Located in the centre of the Puna, San Antonio, one of the stops for the "Tren de las Nubes", survives stoically in the face of the harsh climate. If you arrive here by car and travel on to the city of Salta, take the same route as the famous train.

It could however be a difficult journey without an adequate vehicle, especially in the rainy season - between April and November - because of the numerous crossings of the Toro river. But the road offers the chance to see some unforgettable sights like Santa Rosa de Tastil, where once existed a large indigenous city, now the Ruins of Tastil. To reach them you must ask for the keys in the museum at the entrance to the village.

Wine Valley

One reaches Salta on Route 51, a tiring dirt road but also one of the most spectacular exits from the Puna. This road runs from the city of Salta through the Lerma Valley to the Calchaqui Valleys. Arriving at Cafayate - capital of the Calchaqui Valleys - one travels across a broad desert with strange geological rock formations such as "El Obelisco" (the obelisk), "La Garganta del Diablo" (the Devil's Throat) and "El anfiteatro" (the amphitheatre), a high semi-circular stone wall where guitarists play for the occasional visitor.

Cafayate, a tourist city, usually overcrowded during the winter vacations and Easter week, has the attractions of vineyards and important "bodegas" that cultivate the "torrontés" grape, the only variety unique to Argentina. Visitors to the Etchart and La Rosa bodegas are received with a glass of wine.

 


ISO 9001 : 2000
CERTIFIED
Travel Consulting, Tourist Operation Management
&
Electronic Air Tickets Distribution


ARGENTINA
Hotel
Reservation
ARGENTINA
FLIGHTS
OUR TRAVEL AND TOURISM SITES
IN LATIN AMERICA
PATAGONIA
Travel & Tours
CHILE
Travel & Tours
PERU Travel
& Tours
ECUADOR & GALAPAGOS
Travel & Tours
BOLIVIA
Travel & Tours
MEXICO
Travel & Tours
BRAZIL
Travel & Tours
COSTA RICA
Travel & Tours







ENJOY ARGENTINA -  Travel to Argentina and Tours in Argentina
Operated by Latin America Travel & Tours

Av. Pte. Roque Saenz Peña 615 4º Of. 416 - Buenos Aires - Argentina

TOLL FREE number: USA: 1-800-790-2961  

Terms and Conditions | Contact Webmasters | Site Map

Resources

Argentina Link Directory

Last Update: © ENJOY CORPORATION S.A. All Rights Reserved.
ENJOY ARGENTINA -  Travel to Argentina and Tours in Argentina